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PROF. L. MOLPOER, 



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COPYRIGHT APPLIED FOR 







"Good afternoon Miss Jennie, arent you going out for a walk?" 

w *0h, no. My new dress came home last night and it is just ruined. It 
makes me sick. 

"I am so sorry, why didn't you have your dress cut by the Eureka Lady Tai- 
lor System as I did mine, then you would not have been in this trouble. Mine 
fits perfectly without my having to try it on once.' 1 

'Is that soV Then 111 have my dresses all made by that system hereafter. 



IMPORTANT NOTICE. 

No person shall have any right whatever to use in any manner my 
Eureka System without having first procured from me or my authoriz- 
ed agents a permit signed by me specifying how and in what way it 
may be used. 

LOUIS MOLPOER Baltimore Md. 




The Eureka system of cutting ladies' and children's garments is found to be 
the most perfect and easiest learned of any system in America, it being impossi- 
ble to make a misfit when the measures are taken correctly and the rules follow- 
ed as laid down in this book. Everyone that learns this system will find how 
easy it is to cut and fit a garment on mathematical principles; and every lady 
should know how to cut and fit her own garments. We can teach any lady in 
two days, more of the art of cutting, than a dressmaker can in three months by 
any other system; for we teach her so that she can do it correctly. The Eureka 
system was first brought to light by the eminent Dr. Wamben of France, and 
it is used in all the largest and leading houses in Europe and America. Certain- 
ly it must be acknowledged that there is nothing to equal a true tailor system 
of garment cutting. Our terms for full course of instruction are only Ten Dol- 
lars; and we guarantee to turn you out competent. You are not limited to any 
time. A full outfit consists of one rule, one belt, one measuring book, one sys- 
tem book and one tracing wheel. 



LOUIS MOLPOER 



EVERY LADY HEK OWN DRESSMAKER. 



#MEASUI$S*FOR*D^AFTING*BASQUE.te 



1. Neck 13 inchr 

2. Arm-Eye 14 

3. Bust 36 

4. Waist 24 

5. Length of Back 16 

6. Under Arm 8 

7. Length of Front 13 

8. Height of Dart 5 

9. Height of Hip. . . 5 

10. Hip 40 

11. Width of Back 13 

12. Width of Chest 13 

13. Neck to Elbow 19 

14. Shoulder 5 

15. Inside to Bend 8 

16. Inside to Wrist 16 

17. Upper Arm 12 

18. Middle of Arm 1U 

19 Elbow 11 

20. Lower Arm. 10 

21. Wrist ' 8 



THE EUREKA LADY TAILOR SYSTEM. 



DlRE6TI0NS*F0R#TAKING*MEASURES. 



1. Waist Measure. — Draw tape tight around the waist. 

2. Under Arm. — First put on the belt, and then measure from the bottom of 
the belt to close under the arm. 

3. Arm Eye. — Place tape under the arm and draw tape up over end of shoulder. 

4. Width of Back.— From arm to arm. 

5. Length of Back.— From the bone of the neck to the bottom of the belt, 
and if the lady is long waisted there is an extension below the belt varying from 
one-half to three fourths of an inch, which should always be added to length of 
back below line 1. 

6. Neck Measure. — Place the tape around the neck close over the inside col- 
lar. 

7. Bust Measure.— Place the tape around the fullest part of the bust up over 
the shoulder blades loosely. 

8. Length of Front. — From hollow in the neck to lower part of belt. 

9. Chest Measure. — From shoulder to shoulder across the chest. 

10. Height of Dart.— From the bottom of the belt up. 

11. Height of Hip.— From the belt down to hip bone. 

12. Hip Measure. —Around the hip over the bustle. 

13. Shoulder Measure.— From the neck to end of shoulder. 

14. Neck to Elbow Measure. — Place the hand to the neck before measur- 
ing, then pass tape from neck, over point of shoulder, to point of Elbow. 

15. Inside Measure to Bend of the Arm. — Place tape close up under the 
arm and measure to the bend of the elbow. 

16. Inside Measure to Wrist.— While you have tape as in direction 15, bring 
tape on down to wrist, and note both measures. 

17. Upper Arm Measure. — Around the arm. The same for middle and lower 
arm measures, keeping the arm bent so the muscle will expand. 

18. Elbow Measure. — Place the tape around the elbow when arm is straight 
then bend the arm keeping the tape over the point of the elbow. 

19. Wrist Measure. — Place the tape around the hand over the thumb, so the 
sleeve will be just large enough for the hand to slip through. 

20. Skirt Measure.— Place tape at the bottom of the belt and bring down to 
the top of the right foot which is placed out, while the lady stands upright. 
The back should be one inch longer if bustle is wanted. Skirt should vary in 
width according to the size of wearer from two and one-eighth yards to two 
and a half. Two and one-eighth for a medium sized lady. 



EVERY LADY HER OWN DRESSMAKER. 




THE EUREKA LADY TAILOR SYSTEM. 



DIRECTIONS i FOR * PLAIN i BASQUE. 



1. Draw line 1 eight inches from the bottom of paper the entire length of rule 
for waist line. 

2. Draw line 2 from the center of line 1 the entire length of rule. 

3. On line 2 make a dot above the waist line, for under arm measure, draw 
line parallel to line 1 for line 8. 

4. Draw line 5 parallel to line 3, the diameter of arm-eye measure.. 

5. Draw lin? 4 through the center of lines 3 and 5. 

0. Draw line 6 to right of line 2. and draw line 7 to the left of line 2, the same 
distance as 4 is from 3 and 5, so as to make four equal squares. Draw lines 6 
and 7 from line 5 to line 1. 

7. Draw slanting diameters of square. 

8. To right of square and line 4 take width of back. 

9. Draw line 8 from waist line up through the dot just made, the length of 
back. 

10. Dot A is one half inch to the left of line 8 on waist line. Draw a line 
from junction of 4 and 8 down to dot A. 

11. Draw line to left of line 8 for back of neck, which is one-sixth of neck 
measure. 

12. Line 9 is a slanting line from end of line just drawn to junction of 3 and 
7. While the rule is in position, dot for the shoulder and curve down to lines 4 
and 6. Add one-fourth inch to line 9 above neck measure and curve to line 8. 

13. Mark on line 3 the bust measure from line A for front line of waist, and 
draw line 10 the whole length of front from line 5 down. 

14. Dot on line 5 to the right of line 10 and for the neck measure, which is 
always one fourth of neck measure, draw a line up from dot just made on line 5 
the same distance for front of neck. 

15. Draw line 11 from top of neck to junction of lines 5 and 6. While the 
rule is in position dot for shoulder. 

16. On line 4, to the right of line 10, take chest measure and make straight 
mark down to line 3, and draw a cross mark from chest mark to 7 each way. 

17. Draw slanting line for waist line from end of line 10 to one half inch above 
line 1 at line 2, and draw to line 8 and raise under arm measure one half inch in 
arm-eye. If lines 10 and 8 are below line 1 need not change under arm measure. 

18. Measure the space between lines 7 and 10 in four equal parts for darts on 
waist line. The space between darts is found by measuring three-eights of an 
inch on each side of the center mark. 

19. Draw a line in each center of space for darts; front dart according to 
measure, back dart one-half inch higher and slanting back one-half inch; then 
curve for darts by placing the small end of long curvature on end of each line 
and curve to waist line. 



1° EVERY LADY HER OWN DRESSMAKER. 

20. The front of the waist is curved in from neck one-fourth of an inch to 
line 4. and curved out one fourth of an inch and in to height of dart and in to 
waist line one half inch and out to line 10 one-half above hip line. 

21 . Take half the space between lines 6 and A and make dot B : one and three- 
fourths of an inch to the left of A make dot C. 

22. Place outside of curvature on dot C and curve up to junction of 4 and 6; 
draw the curve for side body by placing the inside of curvature at dot B and let 
it touch back line at line 3. 

23. Curve the arm eye from the junction of 4 and 6 around to chest measure, 
not letting it come below the cross and up to line 11. 

24. Make dot E one half inch to to the left of slanting diameter to the right 
in arm-eye and use inside of curvature from E to D for inside of side body. 

25. To find the back line of the front and under arm gore— measure the back 
and side body and front at waist line, omitting the width of darts and take half 
the waist measure and make dot I; take half the space between I and back dart 
and make dot H; and draw line 12 from H up to arm-eye straight; the left is for 
front and the right for under arm gore. Draw line 13 from E to I for back of 
under arm gore. 

26. If half the waist measure comes to the right of D then change the position 
of 1 and D, take half the space and put to the left of D in side body, and make D 
and I both in one place, the other half to the left of H and make dot G; and 
curve for under arm gore the same as you would from H. 

27. Measure the arm-eye and if too small, add what is wanting above line 11, 
also measure the neck and take off or add on if too large or too small. 

28. Extend lines 8 and 10 down to bottom of paper and center lines of dartsi 
sloping back one half inch also outside lines of darts, leaving one fourth of an 
inch each side of center lines. 

29. Measure for hip line from vaist line at 8. 10 and 2 according to height of 
hip, and draw line 14 for hip line. 

30. Mark dots B, C, D. I and H on hip line. 

31. Slope back line from A to line 8 on hip line. 

32. Inside of back is sloped from dot C and three-fourths of an inch to the left 
of C on hip line. 

33. Back of side body is sloped from B, one inch to the right of B on hip line. 

34. Front of side body is sloped from D. one and a quarter inches to the left 
of D on hip line. 

35. Back of under arm gore is sloped from I, one and a quarter inches to the 
right of I on hip line. 

36. Front of under arm gore is sloped from H one and a quarter inches to the 
left of H on hip line. 

37. Back line of front is sloped from H one and a half inches to the right of 
H on hip line. 

38. If too large or too small after measuring all the pieces on hip line add on 
or take off to suit hip measure. 



Errata. 

Rule 24— Directions for Plain Basque—Should Read 

as Follows: 

24. Make dot D on waist line one-half inch to the right of line 6; make dot 
E one-half inch to the left of slanting diameter to the right in arm-eye and use 
inside of curvature from E to D for inside of side body. 



**'■ 



THE EUREKA LADY TAILOR SYSTEM. 11 



■ ^ULES*F0R*BASQUE*N0.*2,& 

1. Proceed as in plain basque. Find dots B and C as usual; move dot C one- 
fourth of an inch back, so as to make the back two inches wide. Also, move B 
one-fourth of an inch back, so as to keep the distance between B and C the same. 

2. Use curvature as usual, except that it is moved from one-third to one-half 
inch below the junction of lines 4 and 6. 

3. To find the back line of front and width of under arm gore take the sum 
of back and front measure at waist line, omitting width of darts, and mark half 
the size of waist. 

4. Half the measure between this mark and back dart, and make dot H, the 
same as in plain basque. 

5. Dot D is the same distance to the right of H as the waist measure is from B. 

6. Draw lines 12 and 15 from dots H and D up to junction of line 2 and inside 
arm hole. 

7. Extend lines 8 and 10, and center lines of darts. Mark dots B, C, D, and H. 

8. Slope back line from dot A to hip line. It may be extended outside of line 
8 if necessary. 

9. Inside of back is sloped from dot C three-fourths of an inch to the left of 
dot C on hip line. 

10. Back of side body is sloped from B one inch to the right of B on hip line. 

11. Front of side body is sloped from D two and a quarter inches to the left 
of D on hip line. 

12. Back of front is sloped from H two and a half inches to the right of H on 
hip line. 



Rules*Foi^Stout*Ladie8'*Basque. 



Proceed as in plain basque in making draft. The arm-eye always comes out 
too large. The shoulder should not come below line 11; if such is the case, take 
it out of the arm-eye by putting a dart between lines 4 and 3 and take a pleat in 
draft when tracing so that there will be no pleat in lining. If the space between 
7 and 10 is more than nine inches, measure ten inches from line 10 on waist line 
and put in darts same as usual, except leaving one inch instead of three-fourths 
of an inch for space between the darts. The width from A to C should be two 
inches. Move B one-fourth inch back; and D one-half inch back; and then the 
remainder of waist measure put to the left of H, and make dot G, and make dot 
I under D; and curve under arm gore one and one-fourth inches to the left of G 
on hip line. 



12 



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THE EUREKA LADY TAILOR SYSTEM. 13 



RULES * FOR t DRAFTING * SLEEVE, 



1. Line 1 is inside measure and diameter of arm eye added; dot on this line 
where the diameter begins and make dot B; take half the space between dot B 
and end of line 1 and make dot A; to the left of dot B make dot C inside to bend 
measure. 

2. Line 2 is two thirds the arm eye measure. 

3. Line 3 is the same length as line 1. 

4. Draw lines 4, 5 and 6 from dots A. B and C, to line 3. 

5. On line 5. one-half inch from dot B. make dot D; three fourths of an inch 
from D make dot E. 

6. On line 6. two inches from dot C, make dot F; three fourths of an inch 
from dot F. make dot G; and draw a line from D to F, and E to G; and one inch 
above line 1 at the bottom of the sleeve make dot H, and draw line from F to H. 

7. Draw line 7 three-fourths the wrist measure straight down from end of 
line 1 ; and three inches to the left of the end of line 7 make a dot and draw line 
8 from dot H to dot just made. 

8. On line 8 make dot K three-fourths the wrist measure from dot H; two 
inches inside of H make dot I, and from I one-fourth the wrist measure mark J. 
Extend upper sleeve one-half inch from H and slope down to K. 

9. Dot L is one and one-half inches above line 3 on line 2. From L draw a 
line straight to line 4 and make dot M. For every inch the arm-eye is larger 
than fourteen inches the space between L and line 3 is made one-fourth of an 
inch larger. In the same manner subtract one-fourth of an inch for every inch 
the arm-eye is smaller than fourteen inches. Dot N is one fourth the space from 
L and end oi xine 1. Draw a line from N to line 4 and make dot 0. One-third 
the space from dot N and end of line 1 make dot P. 

10. On line 6. inside of F. mark for the elbow so that the upper sleeve is two 
inches wider than the under sleeve. Mark R for upper sleeve from F, and Q for 
under sleeve from G. 

11. Take tape measure and place shoulder measure on dot N and measure for 
elbow, letting tape pass line 6 between Q and R; make a dot where your real 
measure comes to: then draw line 9 from F through dot just made to line 3, and 
mark Q and R on this line. 

12. Draw a line from M to R and from O to Q and from Q to J and from R to 
K and from G to I. 

13. In curving the upper sleeve begin at D and curve to P, and from N to M. 
Curve top of under sleeve from E to O. After curving the inside of upper and 
under sleeve, measure for upper, middle and lower arm, and curve outside of 
sleeve according to measure. 



14 



EVERY LADY HER OWN DRESSMAKER. 



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THE EUREKA LADY TAILOR SYSTEM. 



-*;RULE * FOR * SEWING * IN • SLEEVE*- 



The front seam of sleeve begins where back shoulder line crosses the square at 
line 7. The back seam where back and side of body join together. Always make 
the sleeve one sixteenth of an inch larger to the inch than arm hole. 



lot- 



* ^ULE t FOR i BASTING.* 



After tracing lining lay lining on the goods, being sure to lay both smooth, 
and the grain to run the same way. Commence by basting the lining on all the 
traced lines, with small stitches. Be sure to baste the waist lines and keep them 
all even at waist line, which can be done by pinning at the top unless that throws 
the long side of the seam from you. which should always be held next to you 
and slightly stretch the under seam if it appears short. Always hold the back 
shoulder seam next to you ; hold the back next to you in putting in side body. Com- 
mence at the top in basting darts always first pinning at the waist line. The 
sleeve is sewed in where the back shoulder line crosses line 7 on line 3. which 
should always be marked when traced; back seam where the side body joins the 
back. The collar is sewed on the dress with the rounding side next the dress. 
Always cut collar one inch larger than neck measure and then it will be just 
right to seam the ends and sew on. 




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